Ruelle–Pertois champagne grand Cru, millésime 2012 (practicing organic)
Ruelle–Pertois is a small, family-run Champagne producer located in the town of Moussy. Their various vineyard parcels total just under 15 acres, from which just over 4,000 cases of Champagne are made a year. They are grower-producers of some pretty danged wonderful wines.
Their Côtes de Blancs vineyards (comprising 50% of their holdings) are located in Cramant, Chouilly, and Oiry — all considered 100% Grand Cru for Chardonnay. The other 50% of their vineyards are located in the Vallée de la Marne villages of Moussy, Pierry, and Vinay.
All three champagne varietals (Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay) are planted there, with the majority being Pinot Meunier.
Moussy (pronounced Moose-E) is a charming village that straddles the Vallée de la Marne and the Côte des Blancs. Both Michel Ruelle and his wife Martine Pertois had parents that produced Champagne. When they married in the early 1970s, they formed their own house and set up camp in the village. When they officially retired, their son Benoit and daughter Virginie took the reins of the domain.
Ruelle-Pertois Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Millésime Made of 100% Chardonnay from the family’s grand cru vineyards in Chouilly, Oiry and Cramant. Disgorged to order, usually spending on average 8 years sur lie. 7-gram dosage. Lemon curd and a touch of brioche are present on both the nose and palate. Beautiful, fine bubbles emit lovely lemon custard notes wonderfully enhanced by a touch of crème brûlée.
Ian Cauble, MW: Ruelle-Pertois’ 2012 Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs exhibits a deep straw-yellow in the glass with vivid silver hues moving towards a clear rim. A vigorous mousse is revealed upon the first pour, so I suggest waiting a few minutes before dipping your nose into the glass. The aromatics are quite intoxicating and unafraid of showing off a voluptuous core of fruit led by ripe pineapple, quince, lemon curd, yellow apples, and apricot. Give it a bit more time and the aromatic range widens to reveal caramel, hazelnuts, crushed oyster shell, chalk, buttered toast, lees, a dollop of fresh cream, and vanilla bean. At eight years old, there is still immense energy to be had which just speaks to the profound qualities of Grand Cru Chardonnay in the legendary 2012 vintage. The palate reveals far more weight and richness than last year’s 2011, so if you prefer a bit of creaminess and luxury in your Champagne, this will demand your attention. Since Ruelle-Pertois has already done the bulk of aging for you, this world-class Grand Cru value is ready to enjoy now in all-purpose stems around 50 degrees.