Louis-Benjamin - Didier Dagueneau 2017 'Blanc Fume'

The Wine

In earlier vintages, this wine was labelled as 'Blanc Fume de Pouilly', but the family has withdrawn from the appellation system because it was, in their view, forcing wines into a uniform style and flavor that didn't allow for experimentation that could lead to greatness.

Subsequent labelings of this bottle appear simply as 'Blanc, etc', though all three versions of this brief text appear above the same image of sheet music. This is among the world's most notable (and priciest) Sauvignon Blanc wines, most of which come from this very same producer.

The Winery

Didier Dagueneau came from a wine-making family in Pouilly-Fume / Sancerre regions, but he split from the family to pursue high-adrenalin career and then to make a style of Sauvignon Blanc that was very much his own. Often described as ‘one of the greatest winemakers of our generation’, he was known worldwide as an outspoken but brilliant winemaker.

Dagueneau raced sidecars in his youth. It was only after ‘two falls in quick succession’ that he went into winemaking. Even after this career change he kept his hand in the world of high-adrenalin sports, making a name for himself in the world of sled dog racing, where he earned European and world championships.

He was equally outspoken with his family and neighboring winemakers, ruffling feathers along the way, saying things like this:

'I had a few scores to settle with the family,’ he said. ‘So I decided to make wine, to make better wine than them. That was my first motivation. So I decided to make the best Sauvignon Blanc in the world. Not at all pretentious for someone who’s been making wine for two years.’

In 2008 he suddenly and unexpectedly handed winemaking duties to his son, Benjamin, when the ultralight aircraft Didier was flying stalled shortly after takeoff, falling 150 feet. Benjamin and his sister, Charlotte, have carried on Didier's world-class style ever since, with Benjamin taking over winemaking duties. Under their watch, the winery has maintained its reputation as the best producer of Sauvignon Blanc in the world, crafting a style of wine known for its ageability.