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I'm taking a break from studying Priorat vineyards so I can write about Priorat vineyards. It's sick, I know. But I leave tomorrow for six days in Spain, and I'm learning everything I can about the region.
Priorat (formerly known as Priorato) is Spain's other DOQ (their highest regulatory standard for wine quality). There are only two DOQ's in all of Spain - the well-known Rioja region and the lesser known and far smaller region of Priorat. Priorat was a wine region long before wine (and especially an obscure old world wine) enjoyed its current popularity. Winegrower's kids left in droves for the more attractive beach lifestyle, just 30 minutes away on the coast. But a decade or so ago, a handful of adventurous young adults decided to return home, nurture the long-forgotten Grenache (Garnacha) vineyards, and "produce the best wine we possibly could". And, as they say, the rest is history. This first release won raves from the global wine press, and suddenly demand exceeded supply - a condition that has not changed much today.
Priorat wines tend to be dark, well-oaked and very brawny, which is not normally my preferred style. But as with a few domestic wines (such the Rattlesnake Rock from Big Basin Vineyards), these big wines bring complexity and earthy minerality to the party, giving their joviality a depth that most back-slappers never know. So instead of growing quickly tiresome, these wines pull you back for more, for one more sniff, one more taste... and the next thing you know the bottle is empty. And you swear you've only had a few sips. It's that kind of wine.
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Oh Schist!
What is it that makes these wines so alluring? The smart money is on the soil, though I must use that word loosely. As you can see from the vineyard photos here (click the photos to learn more), the earth that supports these vines is more rock than soil. The local term for it is "Llicorella", which is known as Schist in geological terms. Schist is simply a unique sort of fractured shale with a pH that is nearly neutral (most shale is highly acidic), which I'm told makes it easier for the vines to convey more of the minerality so sought after by wine connoisseurs. And in this case, the mineral flavor is reminiscent of slate, an evocative nuance that makes the price of the best Priorat wines hover in the mid-hundreds.
Upon my return I'll recommend some of the more affordable versions of this wine. No promises - I'm a retailer, not an importer - but if I can find some gems with U.S. distribution, I'll bring them into my portfolio and let you know about them. Meanwhile, support your local wine merchant!
Cheers!
Dave the Wine Merchant