Karner Gabor & Fanni 2017 Tavasz (Kékfrankos), Mátra, Hungary

The Wine

This wine deserves a spotlight! First, it's made from 100% Kékfrankos, which you may have heard of by its slightly more common names, Blaufränkisch or Lemberger. However you spell its name, this grape is one of the up-and-coming red grapes in the broader region that includes Austria, Hungary, Slovakia and Croatia, where it is seen as an heir apparent in a warming climate. 

In today's wine world, you'll hear about Zero-Zero wines, a term applied to wines made with no additions, and this is such a wine. This is a "Natural" wine by any definition, but one that remains delicious and only a little bit funky (just enough to be interesting but not stinky). The wine spent a full 2 weeks on skins before aging for 18 months in 500L Hungarian oak barrels. 

Tasting Notes: 'Tavasz' means “spring” in Hungarian, and this wine evokes a forest waking up after a long sleep. The nose is wild and layered—think black cherry, dried rose petals, smoked paprika, and damp earth. There’s a hint of acacia wood and crushed herbs, with a savory edge that recalls cured meats and forest mushrooms.

On the palate, it’s deep and textural, with dark fruit wrapped in fine tannins and a mineral spine that speaks of volcanic soils. The wine is bottled unfined, unfiltered, and without any additions—not even sulfur—so what you taste is pure vineyard and vintage, exactly as the winemaker intended.

This is not a wine that tries to please everyone. It’s a wine that tells the truth. Decant it gently, and pair with smoked eggplant, venison, or a long conversation. 

13.5% ABV

The Producer

In the shadow of Hungary’s highest peak, Kékestető, lies the volcanic terrain of Mátra—a region once overlooked but now quietly radical. Here,the father-daughter duo of Gábor and Fanni Karner farm 13 acres of old-vine Kékfrankos and Olaszrizling in the village of Szűcsi. Their vineyards are steeped in andesite, red clay, and chalk, and their philosophy is rooted in respect for the land, the grape, and the rhythm of nature.

Gábor, a founding member of the Tőkések Mátra (Handcraft Winemaking Circle), is also a drummer in a progressive metal band, and his wines pulse with the same intensity and precision. Fanni joined the estate in 2018, bringing fresh energy and a shared commitment to zero-zero winemaking. Since 2017, they’ve eliminated all additives, including sulfur, and bottle by gravity without pumps or stainless steel, which they feel leaves a negative impact on their wine.

Their wines are not polished—they’re alive. They speak of place, of history, and of a quiet rebellion and a loud statement against industrial farming. Tavasz is one of their flagship bottlings, sourced from 60+ year-old vines in clay-heavy forest soils. It’s a wine that demands attention, rewards patience, and reminds us that beauty often lies in imperfection.