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Grape Expectations
It can be argued that only three classic, traditional Rioja Producers remain today: Lopez de Heredia, La Rioja Alta, and Martinez Lacuesta. Many Americans who love Spanish wines have heard of the first two families, but... Martinez Lecuesta? Not so much.
Well... little-known Bodega Martinez Lacuesta is one of only two wineries in Haro still owned and operated by its founding family. Unsurprisingly, the Lopez de Heredia and Martinez Lacuesta clans are very close in terms of both their friendship and their commitment to traditional Rioja.
The below snippet is from Maria Jose Lopez de Heredia in the foreword of a book about the winery's 100th birthday:
"In my opinion, if there is a family that is "Jarrero" by namesake, it is the Martínez Lacuesta family. Jarrero not only means being from Haro, but being "from the heart," feeling day-to-day life in our city, getting involved in it, not only in terms of participation in social and cultural activities and of a greater nature, but with the spirit of obtaining recognition from and achieving that our city, literally, "progresses," feels alive, current, is honored and recognized by those, along with them, who form it and fill it with appreciation. Not to mention, without forgetting the contribution and singular presence of the historic labels of their wines." - Maria Jose Lopez de Heredia, 10/19
So why the anonymity of this iconic family? The short answer - only 7% of the Bodega Martinez Lacuesta production has found its way out of Spain. The norm for most Rioja producers is 43%!
One more reason - the family moved out of their original facility in Haro to a location far away from tourist traffic. No fanfare, no train towers. Blink and you'll surely miss it.
So the "coming out" of Martinez Lacuesta is poised to be, without question, the most exciting commercial development in the traditional Rioja category for any passionate wine lover.
But why now? In a nutshell, new blood!
Two years ago, the winery's fourth-generation operators brought in a few employees from outside with the skills to build a "bridge" to the outside world. They started to welcome journalists, focused the portfolio, and returned the packaging to the classic (pre-1970s) aesthetic. The house style remains the same as 20-80 years ago, but the wines are much better dressed and ready for the global market.
And what is that house style? Here's how some Barcelona-based sommeliers have described it, "less wood than Rioja Alta and more fruit than Viña Tondonia"
Despite its long age prior to release, this wine shows stunning freshness that would lead the best of blind tasters to misjudge its age. Tim Atkin's notes help us understand what's going on beneath the cork:
"Surprisingly fresh for its age, this Gran Reserva red is a blend of Tempranillo, 20% Graciano, and 5% Mazuelo from Haro and Villalba. Its aromas of Dried leaves and sweet spices give way to an eleegant palate, with a refreshing minerality and notes of ripe red fruits. Drink from 2025-2035. 94 points." - Tim Atkin 6/25
